Loctite - worth it?

I've read a variety of comments on Loctite and other thread lock adhesives around but I thought I'd ask what folks here think of using them on screws in bracelets.

If you use such a product for this application, which one and why?

I've read that either 222 or 242 (Blue) are the appropriate Loctite versions for these small screws and to stay AWAY from the red loctite as its meant to be permanent.



Apparently Home Depot actually carries it for <$6.

My MTM Special Ops watch had locktite on the threads of the bracelet screws from the factory, so when I had to do some bracelet work I used it on them as well. Blue is the right stuff and yes the red is permenent (comes of with a torch though). I use 242 at work. Not sure of other numbers...I think there is a lighter duty one, Green maybe? Just know that they will be harder to get off so good tools with proper sized tips will be a must.

watches with tight tolerences don't require loctite.Just snugging the screws is enough.But on watches where the male threads don't have
enough height to tighten well in the female threads require something to make up the difference.Some prefer to use blue loctite.
I don't though.Since its a tolerence issue,whats required is something that fills the thread gap and creates the seal.So I use
anti-seize compound.It keeps the screws secure and also makes it easy to unscrew them when needed.Anytime you
have dissimilar metals,like ti and steel mating,an emulsive reaction can occur and seize the screws.So Anti-seize is always a safe
choice.For larger screws on lug tubes,I'll use pipe fitters tape.
I'm just not comfortable using loctite.Its to easy to end up stripping,and on some occasions,snapping screws.

yamahaki wrote:

watches with tight tolerences don't require loctite.Just snugging the screws is enough.But on watches where the male threads don't have
enough height to tighten well in the female threads require something to make up the difference.Some prefer to use blue loctite.
I don't though.Since its a tolerence issue,whats required is something that fills the thread gap and creates the seal.So I use
anti-seize compound.It keeps the screws secure and also makes it easy to unscrew them when needed.Anytime you
have dissimilar metals,like ti and steel mating,an emulsive reaction can occur and seize the screws.So Anti-seize is always a safe
choice.For larger screws on lug tubes,I'll use pipe fitters tape.
I'm just not comfortable using loctite.Its to easy to end up stripping,and on some occasions,snapping screws.

Something like this?
LOCTITE NICKEL ANTI-SEIZE
Copper- free. Recommended for stainless steel and other metal fittings. For preventing corrosion, seizing, and galling in harsh, chemical environments, and temperatures to 2400°F (1315°C).

. . . on threads as fine and tightly machined as bracelets have, I have always used a small dab of quality clear nail polish. It's clean, and it breaks free easily reducing the risk of marring the head of the screws . . . very important in the case of both flat tips and allens.

Docrwm wrote:

yamahaki wrote:

watches with tight tolerences don't require loctite.Just snugging the screws is enough.But on watches where the male threads don't have
enough height to tighten well in the female threads require something to make up the difference.Some prefer to use blue loctite.
I don't though.Since its a tolerence issue,whats required is something that fills the thread gap and creates the seal.So I use
anti-seize compound.It keeps the screws secure and also makes it easy to unscrew them when needed.Anytime you
have dissimilar metals,like ti and steel mating,an emulsive reaction can occur and seize the screws.So Anti-seize is always a safe
choice.For larger screws on lug tubes,I'll use pipe fitters tape.
I'm just not comfortable using loctite.Its to easy to end up stripping,and on some occasions,snapping screws.

Something like this?
LOCTITE NICKEL ANTI-SEIZE
Copper- free. Recommended for stainless steel and other metal fittings. For preventing corrosion, seizing, and galling in harsh, chemical environments, and temperatures to 2400°F (1315°C).

Yep.The operative word there is galling.invicta is notorious for this.They run the screws in so fast that they get seized from galling,not the
loctite.I use anti-seize on every nut,bolt and screw on my motorcycles.I never use loctite on a bike.
You can always ask sinn what the torque specs are for the bracelet screws.I've not ever lost one and I've got a number of U1's and UX's on bracelets
here.
Of course you could get super anal about it and safety wire all of them.lol

I wasn't anal about it until yesterday

But I'm getting that way. Sinn uses Loctite on the factory installed ones and ships it out in the ones sold in Germany. I realize that it would be easy to overdo it, but a very small dot would provide some peace of mind.

I can see using it on the sinn for peace of mind since one got lost.Ask sinn what type they use.The tolerences are very tight
on sinn watches so it won't take much.One things for sure,you'll never strip a bracelet screw on one.other companies fail
when using hex heads,but sinn and formex gets it right.notice how small the wrench is? and that it is flexible? if it was rigid,you'd
run the risk of over tightening them.

yamahaki wrote:

I can see using it on the sinn for peace of mind since one got lost.Ask sinn what type they use.The tolerences are very tight
on sinn watches so it won't take much.One things for sure,you'll never strip a bracelet screw on one.other companies fail
when using hex heads,but sinn and formex gets it right.notice how small the wrench is? and that it is flexible? if it was rigid,you'd
run the risk of over tightening them.

They use 222 but its only available from Watch Supply houses for $30+. They are fine with 242 Blue as a substitute and have used it in the past per their emails to me.

I hadn't noticed really with the wrenches. They are small and flexible. I had chalked that up to them being cheaper and only intended to be used a couple of times.

Remember who the bolt and nut guys is around here and stainless steel has a horrible reputation for galling! I have alot of salad plants and coolers that will put a plated steel nut on a stainless bolt just for that reason! Doc if you want some never seez all send you out an 8 oz brush top can, you will need to use a small paint brush because the brush on the can is too big! It would last you a lifetime! Let me know and all send a can out to you!
Google- Bostik Never-Seez regular grade!

cali kid wrote:

Remember who the bolt and nut guys is around here and stainless steel has a horrible reputation for galling! I have alot of salad plants and coolers that will put a plated steel nut on a stainless bolt just for that reason! Doc if you want some never seez all send you out an 8 oz brush top can, you will need to use a small paint brush because the brush on the can is too big! It would last you a lifetime! Let me know and all send a can out to you!
Google- Bostik Never-Seez regular grade!

That's really nice of you Trev, but you don't have to go to all that trouble. I can pop over to the HD and get some.

Please excuse my ignorance but will this hold if the screw isn't tight enough? I thought it was some sort of grease compound?

I'm trusting Sean it's used in most cases to stop things from locking up! Can see where it's thick enough that it would fill up the thread and they would be less likely to vibrate loose! Not a big loc-tite fan for real small parts, even the blue could be hard enough to get out without stripping or breaking a bolt and forget the red, even with alot of heat you can't break the bond! I use nothing but really like randy's idea and might try it if I have a problem. Most times I just check them once every few months!!

I use it on the racing bikes guys.It avoids galling and reactions between dissimialr metals.I also used it when working for
Freightliner.Anytime you have an aluminium insert and a steel bolt, galling always occurs.The heat will seize the insert and then it spins free.Since
the inserts are in fiberglass,the repair takes time.Steel to pot metal is also dissimilar metals.Besides reacting like that green crap on the battery
posts but at a much smaller level,it again will seize.Some of the bracelets from invicta and the other cheap brands use pot metal for center links
and endlinks.You can tell by the inside finish.Read the peit sheet on anti-seize compounds and you'll feel much better when using it.
Besides torque,it creates a vacuum between the threads,so its not going to back out.It will also extend the life of those screws.

I know the watch industry loves loctite,but its because they know that 99% of the folks who buy a watch won't be working on them.
Its not only a safety measure,it saves them money from having to send out new screws all of the time.Watch companies expect that jewelers
and mall kiosks will be sizing bracelets, not the user.